>Are your eyes rimmed with kohl?

Rimmed with kohl and filled with wonder. Egypt was more than I even dreamed--it was like a voyage to the dawn of history. The streets of downtown Cairo have donkey carts loaded with crates of chickens, bicycle vendors with tomatoes, modern limos jousting with camel riders, a riot of life.

At the south border, at Abu Simbel, there is only desert, water, giant stones, and the river leading to the end of the earth, the Sudan. Incredible.

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